Hot, sweet and sticky barbecue chicken wings

The perfect snack to whet that picnic appetite, this one covers all the taste bud zones. This fun dish incorporates the spirit of backyard grilling—simple finger foods whose flavors are kicked up by searing heat, sweetness, and spice—so it needs an elegant counterpoint. Refresh that spirit and cleanse your palate with the bubbles of a sparkling Cava from Spain.

For the marinade:

1/2 cup ketchup
1/4 cup balsamic vinegar
2 tablespoons dark brown sugar
4 teaspoons granulated garlic
4 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce
3 teaspoons Tabasco sauce
2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
2 teaspoons paprika
2 teaspoons chili powder
20 chicken wings, wing tips removed
Extra-virgin olive oil

To make the marinade: In a medium bowl whisk together the marinade ingredients.

Rinse the chicken wings under cold water and pat dry with paper towels. Place in a large, resealable plastic bag and pour in the marinade. Press the air out of the bag and seal tightly. Turn the bag to distribute the marinade, place in a bowl, and refrigerate for 4 to 6 hours, turning occasionally.

Remove the wings from the bag and discard the marinade. Lightly brush or spray the wings with olive oil. Sear over Direct Medium heat until well marked, 4 to 6 minutes, turning once halfway through searing time. Continue grilling over Indirect Medium heat until the meat is no longer pink at the bone, 8 to 10 minutes. Serve warm.

Makes 6 to 8 servings.